A New Zealand Based Site.
|Here's what we found... The top of the Column must of cracked due to the 4 securing bolts coming loose. Daily useage over time must have weakened the thing until the whole top broke away!|
|As a personal opinion... I think the guy at GM who designed the fastening system for the tilt mechanism with bolts that were too short and no lock washers, or even Loctite, should be strung up by the balls and then shot!!!! Sorry, but this would never have happened if this simple detail had been thought out properly. If you're out there and you read this... Do everybody a favour and go work for Lada!|
|These tilt columns have quite a high component count... Je's! I hope I can remember how this thing goes back together...|
GM Exploded Diagram.
MUST HAVE Tools! DO NOT Attempt this job without them!!!!
(Steering Wheel Puller, Plate Compressor and Pin Puller).
|With the Column end welded back together and the outside linished for fit, The support housing was re-attached using Loctite on the bolt threads and some nail polish on the heads to help reduce loosening. Would liked to have sourced Cap Head bolts of slightly longer length but the threads seem to be a hard to get metric fine (Is that Bastard working for Lada yet!).|
Ign Actuator Rack and Spring positioning.
Routing of the Turn Signal Mechanism and Wiper looms.
Finished Column with new Lock Housing Cover, Key Cylinder and Turn Signal Cancelling Cam.
Parts Marked In Order Of Assembly... Parts that require simultaneous assembly are marked 'A', 'B' etc.
1: LOCK PLATE: This has to be lowered into the Column Jacket prior to fitting the...
2: HOUSING SHROUD: Plate is then positioned correctly in Jacket slots.
3: KEY RELEASE LEVER: Inserted into the Shroud along with it's spring.
4A-4C: HOUSING SUPPORT AND RODS: These must be installed at the same time, roughly routing the Ign Switch and Dimmer Rods correctly. Dimmer Rod passes through the hole in the Support FIRST.
5: SUPPORT SCREWS: Use Loctite and whatever else you can to secure these from coming loose again!
6: IGN SWITCH: Install this ensuring the Rod is located correctly.
7: DIMMER SWITCH: Goes on AFTER the Ign Switch and has 1 screw and 1 bolt (This helps secure the Ign Switch also). This can be adjusted later for correct Switch operation.
8: COLUMN HOUSING: Install with the Tilt Lever pulled back, angle slightly left so as to engage the Switch Actuator Rack with the Ign Switch Rod. Then align the Pivot Pin holes.
9: PIVOT PINS: Tap these into place using an apropriate drift until JUST below the outer surface.
10: TILT SPRING, GUIDE AND RETAINER: Use a large cross head screw driver, push in and twist 1/4 turn right to lock.
11A-11B: DIMMER ACTUATOR AND HOUSING END CAP: Use some grease to hold the Actuator in position on the inside of the Housing End Cap. This bit pushes on the end of the Dimmer Rod. Locate the Cap and Actuator BEFORE doing the next step or the Lock Bolt Spring will be popped out of position.
12: LOCK HOUSING COVER: Use NO force when installing this piece! It should slip on easily with some gentle guiding of the Dimmer Actuator to seat it correctly. Hold the Housing End Cap in place at the same time.
13: LOCK HOUSING SCREWS: 3 Torx screws hold the Housing and Cap in place. Check to ensure, at this stage, that when the Key Drive Shaft is rotated that the Ign Switch operates correctly.
14: KEY CYLINDER: Insert when in the Ign ON position and align for fit with the Key Drive Shaft end. Check everything is in order on the other side as per here.
16: TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ASS'Y: Route the Wiper Loom then the Turn Signal Switch Loom through the 2 Housing Covers so that they both come out below the Ign and Dimmer Switches. Install the Turn Signal Switch Ass'y secure with...
17: TURN SIGNAL SWITCH SCREWS: 3 Torx screws. 2, only, shown above as 1 was left in the Switch Ass'y for ease of removal.
18: SIGNAL SWITCH ARM: One end locates into the Turn Lever and the other is secured to the Switch Ass'y via 1 cross head screw. Grease the Lever end first.
19: UPPER BEARING INNER RACE SEAT: This installs with the cupped side facing outwards and should seat firmly into the Upper Bearing.
20: UPPER BEARING SPRING: This sits on top of the previously installed seat.
21: TURN SIGNAL CANCELLING CAM: This is placed on top of the Spring with the conductive ring innermost. The Horn Wire Socket should be pointing outwards and aprox' in the 10 O'Clock position.
22: SHAFT LOCK PLATE AND RING: Install this Concave side down and with the funny shaped hole over the Horn Wire Socket. This plate can only go on one way due to the shape of the spline it fits over. Put the Ring Clip over the shaft and USE A LOCK PLATE COMPRESSOR to push the Plate just past the slot and install the Ring Clip. Release the compressor and check the clip is seated correctly.
23: SHAFT LOCK COVER: Just a 'cheesy' plastic cover the fits over 3 of the tabs on the Lock Plate. It's a push fit but has 3 screw driver slots for removal.
24: HORN WIRE: Push and twist bayonet type fitting that goes into the white plastic socket. I also used some heat shrink on this to stop it floating about.
25: PLASTIC LOOM COVER: Fits over the 2 Looms at the Connector end, pushes up slightly into the Column Housing Shroud and clips over 2 raised square bolt holes.
26: HAZARD LIGHTS KNOB: Self explanatory.
27: STEERING WHEEL: Again, you know.
28: STEERING WHEEL NUT AND SAFETY CLIP: Few! All done... Simple aye?